Tips for Gravel Riding in Winter & Snow
Suppose you have trouble keeping your hands warm; look into Bar Mitts. They have made a world of difference for me. They are available for drop bar and flat-bar bikes. I have both because they work so well.
Don’t dress too warm. You will work up a sweat playing in the snow. Our friend, Karen, likes to reference the following link for what to wear in different weather conditions and temperatures.
https://www.lagranderide.com/lagranderide-history/features/cycling_clothing_temperature_matrix.pdfConsider carrying a spare, dry base layer with you for emergencies. Wool socks, wool gloves, extra hat, undies, sports bra, shirt, emergency foil blanket, etc. These are for emergencies that leave you stranded. Dry base layers and outerwear will keep you from hypothermia while waiting on a ride.
In frigid temperatures, battery life can drop fast. Carry a charged battery pack and cord with you, or tuck your phone close to your body to keep it warm. That way, you have it for emergencies.
Drop your tire pressure just a little. The more tire touching the ground, the better traction you will have. Don’t drop too low, though; you don’t want to pop the tire off the bead. Example: I usually run around 27psi for gravel on 38cc tires. In the snow, I will drop to 23-25psi. Note: Your PSI will vary based on your weight, the weight of everything you are carrying, your tire width, and how supple (softer or stiffer sidewall) your tires are.
Choosing the “right” line – can be tricky. Sometimes there is a good wheel path down to the rock, and it is much smoother and safer than making your own tracks. Other times that wheel path is slightly iced over or not there. That’s when it is best to make your own path in the fresh snow. This is more fun and work than it sounds. Get a feel for the bottom layer. If there is ice under the snow, it can be slick, especially on turns, so take it easy. If the temps and conditions are right, there will only be snow. This has more traction and less of a “scare” factor.
Prepare your mindset. Think of riding in the snow as skills riding and fun. This is not the time to go for speed or milage, instead to enjoy the scenes, work on balance, focus on smooth pedal strokes, and let the bike move underneath you. Many riders mistake turning a snowy ride into a suffer-fest looking for big miles and speed. Riding in the snow is hard work and burns many calories.
Bring along calories to eat and something to drink. Even though it is cold, your body works hard and needs the calories and hydration to function at its best. Don’t let the cold weather make you think you don’t need water, electrolytes, or food. An hour in the snow burns more calories than a regular 1-hour gravel ride.
Choosing the “right” bike. Ride what you have, make the adjustments needed. If you have options for bikes, here is MY preference:
Fat Bike – 4+ in tires – slow but full of traction and like a tank, you can go anywhere.
Mid-fatty – 3” tires – this is my #1 preference for me. I am a small rider (5’4”, 135 lbs) I don’t want to spend a lot of my energy making the fat tires roll around. The 3” tires are enough to give me good traction and let me ride anywhere I want and have fun in the snow.
Mountain bike – 2.1” tires – you can run a similar pressure here that you do for MTBing. I run about 19psi on my 2.1s” in the snow.
Gravel bike – 38-40cc – these are a little skinny but doable. Lower your psi and stick to flat roads as much as possible to have the best traction. Steer clear of ice!
Recreation bike – makes me nervous but could be doable with the proper snow. Lower tire pressure, flat pedals, straight roads, slow speeds, stay off the ice, and slick surfaces.
Road bike – not recommended for most riders in the snow. Not worth the risk.
After riding in wet conditions, always dry your bike components off and re-lube them. This will keep them from rusting and in good shape for your next ride.
